Autumn Magic at Porto's Botanical Garden

This urban garden truly becomes a photographer's paradise in Autumn. It's a place where time slows down, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in autumn's fleeting magic.

Autumn Magic at Porto's Botanical Garden

It’s hard to imagine Porto’s Botanical Garden as anything other than the tranquil haven it is today, but its story spans centuries of transformation. What began as Quinta do Campo Alegre, a private estate owned by João Salabert in the early 1800s, has evolved through layers of history, each owner leaving a distinct mark on its character.

The estate’s early years were a mosaic of ambition and reinvention. Its grand palace, lush gardens, and later, a greenhouse, were not just signs of wealth but of a growing passion for the land’s potential. Yet it was the Andresen family, arriving in the late 19th century, who turned the property into a poetic masterpiece. The Garden of Jotas and the Rose Garden, crafted during their tenure, reflected their deep appreciation for beauty and art. Their legacy lives on most notably through Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, one of Portugal’s literary icons, who spent her childhood immersed in the estate’s magic.

By the mid-20th century, the estate transitioned into public hands. The Portuguese state, envisioning a place of study and serenity, entrusted the space to the University of Porto. Under the guidance of landscape architect Franz Karl Koepp, the gardens were reshaped into a living museum. In the decades since, it has been restored and modernized, earning accolades like the “International Camellia Garden of Excellence” and the “Green Flag Award.”

For me, it’s not just history that draws me back here—it’s how the garden seems to hold its past and present in perfect harmony, offering something new with every visit.

This past weekend, October ushered me into the Botanical Garden’s embrace. The air was crisp, the kind that fills your lungs with a quiet joy, and the low autumn sun had turned everything it touched to gold. As a photographer, I couldn’t resist. But more than that, I felt like a storyteller, compelled to capture the garden’s fleeting dialogue with the season.

I started where formality and wildness meet: the hedged geometric gardens. Usually pristine, their sharp lines softened under a patchwork of amber leaves. Each step revealed new contrasts—the structured symmetry of the hedges colliding with the gentle chaos of autumn. Sunlight streamed through the trees, casting intricate shadows across the stone paths. I adjusted my lens, trying to capture not just what I saw but how it felt—like walking through a memory of endless autumns past.

Further into the arboretum, the garden truly opened up. Here, trees from across the globe stood in radiant unity. The Japanese maples were a spectacle, their leaves a riot of crimson and orange, while the ginkgos burned with an almost supernatural yellow. Oaks, chestnuts, and sycamores wove deeper, earthier tones into the scene, creating a kaleidoscope that shifted with the light. I became lost in the details: the way light filtered through a single leaf, the crinkle of fallen foliage underfoot, the way the wind carried with it a faint whisper of the season’s transience.

And then there was the succulent garden. I wasn’t expecting its bold contrast to autumn’s softer edges. The angular silhouettes of cacti and the waxy sheen of succulents glinted in the fading light, their presence stark yet oddly harmonious. Against the backdrop of gold and rust, their spiky forms were a photographer’s dream—unpredictable, dramatic, and entirely captivating.

Autumn isn’t just a season in Porto’s Botanical Garden; it’s a fleeting performance where nature takes centre stage, and I will boldly suggest a few tips in case you decide to visit at this time of the year.

Start with the light. The low sun in autumn transforms everything it touches, casting long shadows and illuminating even the most ordinary scenes with a painter’s brushstroke. Early morning and late afternoon are when the magic is strongest—don’t miss it.

Go beyond the sweeping landscape and focus on the intimate details. The leaf carpets that gather at the edges of paths or the veined textures of a single leaf are stories waiting to be told. Experiment with framing: crouch low to let a leaf-filled path draw the viewer’s eye, or find unexpected reflections in the garden’s tranquil pond, where drifting leaves create a natural mosaic.

Look for contrasts. Autumn here isn’t just about colour—it’s about how the season interacts with the architecture of the garden. The sharp lines of hedges softened by scattered leaves, or the bold silhouette of a cactus against the pastel hues of the sky, can make for unforgettable compositions.

Most importantly, let the garden guide you. Resist the urge to plan every shot. The Botanical Garden in Autumn is as much about being present in its stillness as it is about capturing its beauty. When you let go of the script, the best moments—the ones that feel like they were waiting just for you—will find you. Every single time.

There’s something about Porto’s Botanical Garden that transcends the ordinary. Its history adds depth, and its beauty inspires awe, but it’s the quiet conversations it has with the seasons that make it truly special. Autumn, in particular, is a time of revelation here—a fleeting yet profound reminder of nature’s artistry.

So bring your camera, but more importantly, bring your curiosity. Whether you’re seeking the perfect photograph or simply a moment of reflection, this garden will meet you halfway, offering wonders that linger long after you leave.

Porto Autumn 2024, a Series by Paulo Furtado — Glass
Autumn Magic at Porto’s Botanical Garden.